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North Pole


July 7 ~ 23, 2007


The geographic North Pole is defined as 90 degrees north in latitude and all directions are south.  The geographic North Pole is different than the magnetic North Pole. Since 1831, the magnetic North Pole moved from northern Canada into the Arctic Ocean. The magnetic north pole is estimated to reach Siberia in about 50 years.

While the South Pole lies on the Antarctica land mass, the North Pole is located in the middle of the Arctic Ocean. Most of the Arctic Ocean is covered with constantly shifting sea ice.  The sea depth at the North Pole has been measured at 13,410 feet. The Arctic Ocean’s deepest point is almost 18,000 feet.

My North Pole expedition on July 7 ~ 23, 2007 was about the journey rather than the destination.  The Russian icebreaker Yamal is a marvelous powerful ship.  The ice was magical and beautiful.  The bears were so cute.  Fellow passengers and the multinational crew and staff were so wonderful.  Helsinki, Murmansk, Russia, and the North Pole were memorable.

Let us begin this journey.

Murmansk is the only ice-free port in the Russian Arctic.  Murmansk is the home port for five nuclear powered icebreakers and one nuclear powered freighter leased by the Russian government to the Murmansk Shipping Company. The Murmansk Shipping Company also operates two diesel powered icebreakers.

The Yamal is one of most powerful icebreakers in the world. Two nuclear reactors produce steam that turn dynamos for propelling the three electrical propellers and other electrical needs. Each propeller or screw delivers 25,000 horsepower for a total of 75,000 horsepower.

The Yamal is primarily a working icebreaker except at the end of June and July when it carries adventure seeking passengers to the North Pole on three trips. The Yamal and other Russian icebreakers keep the Siberian coast shipping lanes open during the winter.

Icebreakers break ice by using momentum and power to push their bow up on the ice. The ice is pushed down by the weight of the ship which causes the ice to break off in chunks. The broken ice is then pushed out of the way by the icebreaker hull as it proceeds forward. The Yamal has a double hull with water ballast between them. The outer hull is 2 inches thick at strategic areas and is 1 inch thick in other areas.

The Yamal carries extra blades that can be changed at sea. The icebreaker also has two helicopters—a large one that can carry as many as 20 passengers and a smaller one.  We rode the larger helicopter that circled the Yamal while she progressed through the ice.  The larger helicopter was also used for our landing on Franz Joseph Land.


The Russian Chief Engineer and his interpreter gave us a very thorough presentation about the Yamal before our engine room tour. The tour included all areas except we were not allowed to take a photo of the reactor room.   A mandatory safety and lifeboat drill was conducted on our first full day at sea. In case of emergency, we were shown how to slip into a thermal wet suit that would protect us in case we had to enter the freezing water. Also we viewed the lifeboats.

Tai Chi and volley ball activities were available in the Yamal’s indoor gym.  The dining aboard the Yamal was first class. The food was tasty and well presented. A variety of excellent meals were prepared by the Austrian kitchen staff. The service was also great.  Complementary wine was served with the meals.

My cabin was comfortable. The ship was so warm that I opened my two port holes and turned on the fan. Wearing a mask at night helped me sleep through the 24 hours of daylight. The Yamal provided a smooth voyage through the ice and most of the time I forgot that I was on an icebreaker.

Acquired during my journey, a beautiful map was hand drawn by Boris Pashenko, the Ice Master of the Yamal. This map recorded our exact path to and from the North Pole.  After two days of open water, we met the floating ice near Franz Joseph Land, an archipelago or cluster of islands.  Although it was hard me to measure, this map recorded ice thickness of an average about 2 meters (approximately 6 feet). The total mileage of our round trip to the North Pole was almost 3,000 nautical miles equal to approximately 3,400 land miles.

Ice with little or no air bubbles absorb all colors except blue which is reflected.

Some scientists and climatologists believe that global warming will have a negative effect on polar bears. Despite these predictions, the actual data shows that as the earth has warmed, the total global population of polar bears has increased, and not shrunken. Since the 1970s, while much of the world was warming, polar bear numbers increased dramatically from roughly 5,000 to 25,000 bears today.

The polar bear is the world's largest land carnivore, with most adult males weighing approximately 600 to 1300 pounds.  Adult females are about half the size of males. The bear’s fur is hollow and translucent appearing white or cream color, thus providing the animal with effective camouflage. However, its skin is actually black in color. Its thick blubber and fur insulate it against the cold. The bear has a short tail and small ears that help reduce heat loss. Its small head and long, tapered body are streamlined for swimming. The polar bear rolls on the ice to free its fur from salt deposits.

Attempting to light a Cuban cigar given to me by Dan from California, Mikhail, a Russian crew member and carpenter, kindly offered to light my cigar on deck during our onward journey to the pole. This episode leads to Mikhail inviting Dan and me to his cabin where we met Sasha, another crew member. Mikhail graciously offered us Russian vodka and beer, cigarettes plus food from his refrigerator. Having just eaten at the barbecue I accepted the liquid refreshments and cigarettes. Struggling to understand each other, Mikhail called for Irina, an interpreter. We had an enjoyable visit.

Typically we had four interesting Arctic lectures daily about ice, ocean currents, geology, history and animals in the Polar Regions. In addition, we were treated to films presented by Sue Flood, a producer who contributed to BBC’s Blue Planet and Planet Earth.

On July 14, 2007, the GPS display confirms that we have reached 90 degrees north, the geographic north pole of the earth. Although the Yamal has been at the North Pole some 41 times, we were the 67th icebreaker journey in history to make it to the North Pole.

Perhaps you read about a British swimmer who says he wants to wake up politicians around the world to the threat of climate change by swimming in the world’s five oceans.  Lewis Pugh and his crew were on my North Pole voyage.  He successfully swam one kilometer, which is about 6/10 of a mile, on July 16 for 18 minutes and 50 seconds in the Arctic freezing water in just a Speedo, cap and goggles.

Franz Josef Land was discovered in 1873 by an Austrian expedition. Nowadays it is one of rare “wild” places left on earth. The archipelago consists of 191 islands, 83% of them are covered with permanent ice.

During a Helsinki harbor tour on a beautiful sunny day, we saw boat marinas, various boats passing by, Suomenlinna Fortress built in 1748, Finnish icebreakers, and cruise and tour boats. My walking tour included viewing the landmark Helsinki Lutheran Cathedral and Uspensik Cathedral, the largest Orthodox Church in Western Europe.





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Name Comment Date
John Manthey Beautiful Dec 24, 2007
Tim & Lana Extraordinary photos--we really enjoyed seeing the polar bears up close--what magnificent animals--good to know that their numbers are increasing. Dec 4, 2007
Alan and Betty Really incredible photography! Sep 22, 2007
Bill Levengood Bravo, Bravo. Excellent What a really cool trip (no pun intended) Sep 20, 2007
JoNan Collins Fabulous!!! Sep 8, 2007
Susan Halterman EXCELLENT! Thanks for sharing your marvelous adventure through your photography. You are doing a supurb job with these presentations. I enjoy learning from your journies. Aug 30, 2007
Frank D. You've made a fantastic journey and brought home an exciting report for us to see. Very nice. Aug 26, 2007
Gail Walco Absolutely Outstanding. Thank you, Thank you! Aug 26, 2007
Jerry Leder Wow, great show, specially knowing what it took to do! Aug 26, 2007
Barbara Dunson What a great trip-Loved the Bears. Aug 25, 2007
Ma Li Beyond the description, cool!!!!!!!!! Aug 25, 2007
Becky Causey-Newton Brillant!! thank you for sharing your adventures! Aug 25, 2007
David McEown Wonderful! Aug 24, 2007
Dan Temianka Frank -- you are cool! Great production! Aug 24, 2007
Katarina Amazing...this reminds me of my trip and brings back the best memories!!!!! A trip of a lifetime!!! Aug 24, 2007