Croatia ~ Italy

May 4 ~ 16, 2005

Croatia

The Croatian coast on the Adriatic is perhaps the most attractive one on the Mediterranean with picturesque islands, bays and magnificent beaches.  More than 1,200 scenic islands bask in the sun.  The limestone terrain of beaches and mountains give the sea a crystal-clear bluish-green color.  Coastal visibility of the water is typically about 15 feet.  The weather in the Adriatic was cool during May, however, overall very pleasant.  Typically this region enjoys a mild Mediterranean climate.

 

Coastal villages of white limestone buildings with terra cotta tiled roofs dot the landscape.  In May we enjoyed touring most of the medieval and renaissance towns without the hassle of crowds except Split and Dubrovnik.  The architecture was influenced by its past inhabitants, notably the Romans, Byzantines and Venetians.  The two national parks that we visited were stunning. 

 

The Croatian history is very complex fraught with conflict as most of Europe was. The Croats--a Slavic people--settled in this area mixing with native Roman people and other cultures beginning in the 7^th century.  For the next 800 years, the Croats accepted the reign of foreign rulers and accordingly their territory being redefined as new rulers took charge.  Then the Croats experienced turbulent times for some 200 years beginning with the 15^th century.  The Venetian and the Ottoman invasions were disastrous, especially the defensive battles against the Ottomans.  During this period, the Croats approximately lost 1,600,000 lives and territory.  After the Ottomans were defeated in the late 17^th century, a long period of political unrest of bloody demonstrations and assignations followed.  In an attempt to protect its own interests, Croatia joined various unions with neighboring Germanic and Slavic countries with a variety of names including the communist state of Yugoslavia. 

 

After the fall of the Berlin wall in 1989, the Croats as well as many other Europeans, rejected communism in a 1990 election.  After refusing to acknowledge the democratically elected government in Croatia and to accept any kind of reform in Yugoslavia, the Serbs with the backing of the Yugoslav army and Chetnics attacked mercilessly and conquered almost one third of the whole Croatian territory.  Nevertheless, Croatia was not conquered.  The brave and skillfulness of the Croatian soldiers overcame the Serbian superiority of quantity of weapons and military forces.  In 1992, Croatia was recognized by the European states.  By the end of 1995, the Croats had driven out the aggressor and liberated the largest part of their territory.  The Dayton treaty stopped the war in Croatia and in Bosnia and Herzegovina.  The United Nations administered disputed territories and only as late as January 1998 the remaining territory was returned to Croatia.

 

Although religion was suppressed during Communism, religion is an important part of Croatian life.  The great majority say that they are Catholics (approximately 80%) and Orthodox (11%).  The minority is Protestant and Muslim.  However, one of guides said that some of the Catholics are not really practicing Catholics possibly from the influence of the bygone Communist era. 

 

Even with the heavy damage inflicted by the aggressors during this unfortunate war, the Croatians have rebuilt their country where the physical scars have almost disappeared.  During our visit, we did not recognize any appreciable remaining damage from the war.

 

Beginning in Venice

After arriving in Venice at about 4:30 p.m., May 4, 2005 via British Airways from London, we were the last passengers to board the M/V Monet, a yacht-like ship with 30 outside cabins.  Because of its shallow draft, this ship was the right size for calling on the small island ports and coastal towns even though it lacked the roominess and elegance of the mega cruise ships.  Our service was professional and caring by of the all-Croatian crew.  They were also fun to be with. 

 

We remained at the Venice dock over night to accommodate a morning Venice tour.  The remainder of the afternoon was filled with getting to know our fellow passengers, exploring the ship and participating in the mandatory emergency drill. 

 

At 6:00 p.m., we departed our dock and had cocktails on the deck as we passed St. Mark’s square on our way out to the Adriatic.  We also attended an early evening cultural lecture.  Unlike the mega ships, this ship lacked the traditional casino, large entertainment theatre and other amenities. 

 

Pula, Croatia

Arrived at 7 a.m. at the Pula dock where we could see the Roman amphitheatre.  Situated on the Istria peninsula, Pula is the largest town and port.  It is well-known for its magnificent Roman monuments. 

 

The amphitheatre is one of the six largest Roman amphitheatres existing today.  In the 1^st century, this 23,000 seat arena held gladiator fights.  Like most Roman amphitheatres, this one had a retractable roof.  Also we toured the lower level where one could imagine how the lower infrastructure of this facility operated.

The roofs of the four towers were designed to collect the scented water that was sprayed onto the stalls. 

 

In the 1^st century BC, the Sergii arch was constructed to honor three brothers who held important positions in the Roman Empire.

 

Near the Sergii arch is a bar with a bronze statue of James Joyce, who lived here for six months in 1904.  The bar name is Uliks (“Ulysses”) in memory of the Irish writer.

 

Standing in a square that was once a Roman forum, a Roman temple was built in the 1^st century AD.  Depicting simple lines, this monument is a typical example of Roman architecture.

 

Since many of the medieval towns were built on a hill side, most streets had stairs instead of flat passage ways.

 

As we were returning to our ship, we saw construction fencing and a lot of excavation.  Peeping through the fence we saw many pieces of ancient pottery. After the Pula city tour, our ship departed Pula for Split.  In the afternoon we attended two cultural lectures.

 

Split, Croatia

Split is an important cultural center of the Dalmatian coast.  The historical center of Split is the Roman palace.  In addition, it is a modern port with shipyards.  Incidentally, the purebred Dalmatian dog originates from this area.

 

After Diocletian became the Roman emperor in 284, he set out to reorganize the immense Roman Empire, dividing it into two parts.  After 20 years, he retired and moved into his new palace in 305.  Actually, the “palace” is a fortress city in itself with temples, servant and guest quarters, mausoleum, offices and other facilities.  The cathedral was consecrated in the 7^th century when the sarcophagus containing the body of Diocletian was removed and replaced by the remains of St. Domnius.  While we were touring the palace, it was being used for flower show in the lower level.  Outside the walls, the locals were celebrating the 1,700^th anniversary of St. Domnius, the patron saint of Split. This Saturday’s celebration included a procession and a mass at the city's quay.

 

During the tour, our guide acted the part of Diocletian, the retired Roman emperor.

 

Hvar, Croatia

In the afternoon we departed Split and were bound for Hvar, which we are scheduled to arrive at 4:30 p.m. 

 

Art treasures, a mild climate, good beaches and fields of scented lavender make this island of the treasures of the Adriatic.

 

Docking at the Hvar harbor was a very short walk to the main square.  From the vantage point on the Monet’s deck, one can see the town and the two forts built in 16^th and 18^th centuries on top of the mountains.

 

The dining staff and crew really put on a very nice barbecue held on the rear deck.  In addition to the treat from an open charcoal spit, we had all the trimmings and entertainment, too.

 

Dubrovnik, Croatia

The classical view of Dubrovnik was observed about one mile to the south on the elevated road.  Dubrovnik has been one of the top international tourist destinations of Dalmatia.  Founded in the 7^th century, this charming city is renowned for its beauty.  It came under Byzantine, Venetian and Hungarian rule but attained formal independence after 1382 when it became the Republic of Ragusa. 

 

Being one-half Croatian (my mother was 100% Croatian), I met two other fellow guests who were also one-half Croatian. Joe is a marketing and sales executive with a national home builder operation in California.  Dave is a physics researcher with a Midwest university.  We affectionately called ourselves “cousins”.   Actually, we are not cousins because my Croatian ancestors emigrated from an area southeast of Zagreb in 1905.  I believe that the Croatian ancestors of Joe and Dave came from the Adriatic coast.

 

Mljet, Croatia

Mljet National Park has a mountainous terrain with two salt-water lakes linked by a channel.  In the Roman times, this area was a holiday resort for the wealthy.

 

In the center of the larger of two lakes is a small island with a 12^th century Benedictine monastery.  It was remodeled in the 1500’s and was a hotel from 1961 to 1991.  It is closed now and slow restoration is in progress.  A snack shop was open where we boys had some beers. 

 

Departed Mljet at noon and arrived at Korcula two hours later.

 

Korcula, Croatia

The town of Korcula is another is another very enchanting medieval place.  Inhabited since the prehistoric times, this town was fought over by many nationalities.  The town is perched on the peninsula of the island of Korcula.  It is surrounded by strong 13^th century walls.  Towers and bastions were built in the 15^th century by the Venetians.

 

The two lions guard St. Mark.  Incidentally, the Venetian symbol of St. Mark is the lion.

 

Streets open to a northern exposure were constructed with a curve to minimize cold winds in the winter.  A straight street is exposed to the south to allow better ventilation during the summer.

 

We sailed at about 11 p.m. from Korcula and headed for Sibenik. 

Sibenik, Croatia

In a protected harbor only accessible through a narrow channel likes the Fort of St. Nicholas.  We passed by this 16^th century fort in the morning.

 

The local cathedral’s Door of Lions is named after the two stone lions that support columns of statues of Adam and Eve on either side of the Gothic doorway.  An impressive ceiling of the baptistry contains many reliefs with God in the center and other biblical characters surrounding him.

 

The Krka National Park protects the lower stretches of the Krka River, which flows into the bay of Sibenik.  The cascading waters are 82 feet high.

 

We departed the ship in Venice and took a water taxi to our hotel to continue our journey in Italy.

 

Venice, Italy

Although many cities are unique in their own personality formed by its history and people, Venice (Venezia) is considered one of the most unusual.   After Rome succumbed to Germanic invaders in the 5^th century, many people living in an area now what is northeastern Italy fled to more than 100 low islands in the centre of a Lagoon; this was the beginning of Venice. 

 

Defying the Adriatic Sea, Venetians drove millions of timber poles into the mud around the main islands to defend against sea erosion.   For building foundations, these poles were driven into the unsupportive subsoil to rest upon solid compressed clay.  Remarkably effective, some magnificent buildings have stood for more than 400 years.  Much of the limestone building stone was transported by boats over the Adriatic Sea from Istria, which is now Croatia. 

 

Therefore, these islands are joined loosely together with the separation of canals between them.  Surprisingly, there are not as many bridges as one would image.  All goods, equipment and people are transported by public water buses, private taxis and various types of boats.  Venice does not have a network of paved streets for cars and trucks.  One causeway bridge for motor vehicles and trains joins the island’s western edge to the mainland.  Both the road and rail terminate abruptly at this point where water craft take over. 

 

Historically, since the Venetians didn’t have any history prior to the fall of Rome, the religious and civic leaders searched for some link to the past.  Well, it is claimed that the bones of St. Mark were stolen from his tomb in Alexandria and brought back to Venice.   The evangelist’s mummified remains supposedly are buried beneath the altar of St. Mark's Basilica (Basilica di San Marco).  These authorities quickly elected St. Mark as Venice's patron saint.  The apostle’s symbol of a winged lion became the logo of the Venetian Republic.  Consequently, there are many lion symbols of St. Mark all over Venice.  Incidentally, the lion symbol has been a favorite of many civilizations in the west and east for centuries. 

 

Not to be outdone by other medieval rivals in Europe, the Venetians have amassed architecture and art that stands with the best in the world.

 

The Palazzo Ducale was once home to Venice’s rulers and the offices of state.  Known as the Doges’ Palace, it is a great example of Gothic architecture.  Behind the palace stands the 13^th century Basilica de San Marco.

 

Breaking with tradition, the Doges’ Palace built in the 14^th and 15^th centuries is adorned with pink marble on upper section supported by fretwork of white Istrian stone.  It stands prominently facing the direction of the open sea to impress visitors.  The vaulting of the main stairway in the Doge’s Palace is decorated with frescoes and gilded stucco.  The Bridge of Sighs was built as a passageway between the Doges’ Palace and the prison.  It reputedly took its name from the sighs of prisoners being let to trial.

 

One of Venice’s most famous sights, the Rialto Bridge offers fine views of the Grand Canal and marks the heart of the city.

 

The Baroque church of Santa Maria della Salute stands at the mouth of the Grand Canal.

 

A water bus was a very efficient and inexpensive way to see Venice.  At times the Grand Canal is very crowded with other water taxis and boats.

 

The Baroque church of San Stae is located on the Grand Canal.  It is richly adorned with statues.

 

Like the city of Venice, Murano consists of a cluster of small islands.  However our focus was at one of the most high-quality glassmaking factory, Ars Cenedese Murano.  

 

After touring various showrooms at the Ars Cenedese Murano glassmaking factory, we were seduced by the beauty of hand-painted glass ware.

 

Taking a private launch from Piazza San Marco, we were taken to our very beautiful hotel and retreat from the crowds of Venice.  The Hotel Cipriani offered the very best of Venetian hospitality, luxurious accommodations, attentive service and the finest cuisine in an atmosphere of calm and seclusion.

 

In the morning of the day of departure from Venice, we were informed that the Italian Eurostar train to Florence was on strike.  So the Hotel Cipriani concierge arranged a private car to take us to our next destination. 

 

Florence & Tuscany, Italy

It took about three hours by private car to reach Florence (Firenze) from Venice (Venezia).  Our driver snaked the auto through the narrow and busy streets of Florence and up the hill to the suburb of Fiesole, which has a stunning view of Florence and the nearby Tuscany countryside.  In 1999, we actually were momentarily here on this Fiesole winding street overlooking Florence.  At that time on a bus, which was departing Florence after a short day tour, I vowed to return to this area in the future to enjoy more of its splendid beauty.

 

Florence (Firenze) is a beautiful city with many examples of art and culture of the Renaissance.  Many famous 15th century writers and artists have left their legacy in Florence.  While the Etruscans had long settled the hills around Fiesole (now a suburb of Florence), Florence sprang to life in 59 BC. 

 

Having visited many tourist attractions in the past 10 days in Croatia and Venice, we were ready to relax and experience Florence and Tuscany in a more relaxed manner.  In 1999 we visited the main tourist sites including the Duomo, Galleria dell’ Accademia where Michelangelo’s most famous work David (1504) was displayed and other points of interest.  Therefore, we selected Villa San Michele in the neighboring suburb of Fiesole to be our refuge.

 

The Villa San Michele a Doccia, situated on the hill of Fiesole, is named after the church of St. Michael the Archangel.  The original building on this site was a monastery, founded in the early years of the 15th century for the Franciscan monks.  The present building with its façade attributed to Michelangelo dates back to about 1600 when it was enlarged and completely renovated.  The monastery remained property of the Franciscans until 1808 when the monastic orders were dissolved by Napoleon.  In 1900, the Villa was acquired by New Yorker Henry Cannon, who landscaped the gardens and restored the building after a Victorian fashion.  The property was sold in 1950 and turned into a hotel.  In 1982, Orient-Express Hotels, which already owned the celebrated Hotel Cipriani in Venice bought the Villa San Michelle and surrounding land.  Once more a comprehensive restoration of the buildings was embarked upon with the cooperation of the Florence Fine Arts Authority.

 

One can wander around the gardens and terraces of the villa for hours finding peace and tranquility.  Our room (Room II) had a splendid view.  What a view of the gardens and Florence!

 

Built by the monks in the early stages of their acquisition of Villa San Michele, the Limonaia had the only purpose of storing the potted lemon trees during the rigid winters. Lemons were needed for various medical and health purposes. The large volumes and high ceilings allowed the total refurbishment into two large, airy, panoramic suites, equipped and furnished to please the most demanding. One features an intimate terrace; the other offers a whole private lawn.  Other terraced suites are tastefully camouflaged with gardens.

The original Italian garden, restful with its simplicity of lawns and potted lemon trees is surrounded, at different levels, by extensive growth of rosemary, lavender and shrub originating from these hills.  Colorful flower beds are a pleasant contrast to the extensive woodland that encircles Villa San Michele on all sides.  Dominating the garden scene, a monumental century old wisteria covers the whole facade overlooking the Italian garden.

 

At the top terrace overlooking Florence is a large pool, cabana and restaurant with bar.

 

What a reception hall!  Originally used as the main chapel, the altar is at the far end from the Villa’s main entrance.  The hotel reception desk is now situated at the right in front of one of the four side altars.  On both sides of the nave are separate altars and tomb (not known if someone is still in there!). 

 

One of the main paths to the hotel rooms and facilities is to walk up toward the altar and step up behind the communion rail and turn sharply left in front of the altar and exit the chapel.  Imagine, you are tracing the 500-year path of the monks who used this entrance/exit in celebrated daily mass.

 

Excellent meals were served on the terrace with a view of Florence.  At the other end, we enjoyed cocktails in the bar section while listening the music of a talented pianist, Roberto Bruschi.

 

A fresco of the last supper, completed by Nicodemo Ferrucci in 1642, was unexpectedly found in one of the multipurpose rooms.  Smoke from the fireplace and candles, steam from the food and even human breath over the centuries had dulled the colors and obscured the detail.  In 1999, the fresco was restored and interesting details were revealed, such as a little white cat at the foot of the table in the first lunette and a window with a cloud just above.  The oil lamp above Christ’s halo was another revelation as was the identity of Judas, now revealed as the only apostle without a halo. 

 

Our visit to Florence was general sight seeing including taking a city tour in an open double-decker bus and shopping.  The Villa San Michele provided a courtesy van that operated frequently throughout the day.  Perhaps one of the most known symbols of Florence is the richly-decorated Duomo – Santa Maria del Fiore.  This cathedral is Europe’s fourth largest church.  Since we toured inside this church in 1999, we avoided the crowds and long lines.  The Duomo still remains the city’s tallest building.  We can see its orange-tiled dome from the Villa San Michele.  The famous east bronze doors of the Baptistry of the Duomo depict the “Gate of Paradise,” showing scriptural subjects.  These doors are copies of the originals now found in the Museo dell’Opera Del Duomo (museum).

 

Ponte Vecchio is oldest surviving bridge in the city was built in 1345.  Today it houses specialized shops.

 

San Gimignano is about 2 hours south by auto from Florence.  Built in the 12th and 13th century, it was originally prosperous because of its location on the main pilgrim route from Europe to Rome. 

 

This medieval town is full of shops, restaurants and works of art.  Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to really explore the town because we were focused on selecting our new pottery pattern at one of the stores.

 

In the early afternoon on the last day of our adventure, we were taken to the Florence train station and boarded the train bound from Venice.  The train was a pleasant experience.  Because the Venice train station was on the island, we had to take a water taxi to the airport on the mainland.  No land taxi was available from the train station.  As most travelers have discovered, this arrangement wasn’t very convenient.  Furthermore, when we arrived at the airport dock, we had a long walk with our luggage to the main terminal.  We departed on May 16.

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